Guatemala at Last

Guatemala has been on my bucket list since seeing my friend Sheri and her husband returned from there in 1973. Seeing them decked out to the nines in their red and white hand-loomed traje, (indigenous wear), I was struck dumb with appreciation and lust!

A couple of friends decided they wanted to go with me last fall, but then they both found they couldn’t so I had to think hard about whether I would still go for it. I kept feeling a big yes in my gut. Then my sister-in-law Nan took up the travel idea with enthusiasm. So, using all the research we had previously done, off we flew!

We decided to limit our itinerary to two places: Antigua and Panajachel. Those were bookended by overnights in Guatemala City for ease of transition. We used hired drivers, who prove to be very knowledgeable about the areas and culture, and gave us a feel for how to get around.

And we’re off and running to Antigua.

Antigua is a beautiful colonial city, with cobblestone streets and volcanoes looming over it. We settled into our airbnb in a non-touristy neighborhood and explored the area, finding what became our favorite café for brunch and restaurant for dinner. Nan discovered a little local place to bring coffee and cookies for an early breakfast. Who knew I could drink coffee! The way they roast it makes a milder brew, just right for me. We fell in love with the thick tortillas and black beans, and roasted plantains with crema and eggs for our breakfast. For dinner they had wonderful soups. And more tortillas! We liked going to the same places to get to know the servers and become regulars even the short time we were there…

A woman from my gym told me about a warehouse in Antigua that had Huipils (tops) and Cortes (shirts) all stacked up. It was called NimPot, and it did not disappoint! I mean, really stacked up. We were in a trance, seduced by all the variations of weaving the different styles of ikat, stripes, metallic threads, old, new,
you name it.

I have used Guatemalan indigo hand-woven fabric for many years; I love the weight of it for my clothing, and combine it with African and Japanese indigos.

We went to NimPot three days in a row! Each of us had brought an extra bag, which was filled almost to the brim, we felt like kids in a candy store. The beauty was overwhelming.

It was like being kids in a candy store.

Next stop was Lake Atitlan, we stayed in Panjachel, the main town. Again, we explored the local neighborhood, and it’s rustic flavor. Nan was fixated on pupusas, and we found a Salvadorian place that was a dive bar, but the pupusas and cortido were amazing! Food and fabric- what could be better!

One day we took a lancha (boat) to a neighboring village. Coming back was choppy but safe. The village we visited was set up for tourists, but it was still an adventure. On the last day of our stay, we searched out the market in front of the firehouse, called Las Bombas. There were many vendors with antique textiles. Of course we couldn’t resist. We bought one more bag to share.

Afterwards, we took a chicken bus up to Solola, the seat of the state. (The chicken buses are a marvel of chrome and color). It is not a tourist destination and therefore had many locals in full regalia and a wonderful vegetable and housewares market. I hope to go back there, as it is very auténtica.

I do want to return to Guatemala. The people are so kind, and I love the simple delicious food. Next time perhaps I will focus on the history and artifacts, and not be so fabric-centric. But being there, surrounded by volcanoes and a vibrant culture, is what the magic of travel is all about.