Guatemala at Last

Guatemala at Last

May 16, 2026 | Process, Productivity, Studio, Travel

Man and Holly in Pana, Guatemala

Guatemala at Last

Guatemala has been on my bucket list since seeing my friend Sheri and her husband returned from there in 1973. Seeing them decked out to the nines in their red and white hand-loomed traje, (indigenous wear), I was struck dumb with appreciation and lust!

 

A couple of friends decided they wanted to go with me last fall, but then they both found they couldn’t so I had to think hard about whether I would still go for it. I kept feeling a big yes in my gut. Then my sister-in-law Nan took up the travel idea with enthusiasm. So, using all the research we had previously done, off we flew!

We decided to limit our itinerary to two places: Antigua and Panajachel. Those were bookended by overnights in Guatemala City for ease of transition. We used hired drivers, who prove to be very knowledgeable about the areas and culture, and gave us a feel for how to get around.

And we’re off and running to Antigua.

Antigua is a beautiful colonial city, with cobblestone streets and volcanoes looming over it. We settled into our airbnb in a non-touristy neighborhood and explored the area, finding what became our favorite café for brunch and restaurant for dinner. Nan discovered a little local place to bring coffee and cookies for an early breakfast. Who knew I could drink coffee! The way they roast it makes a milder brew, just right for me. We fell in love with the thick tortillas and black beans, and roasted plantains with crema and eggs for our breakfast. For dinner they had wonderful soups. And more tortillas! We liked going to the same places to get to know the servers and become regulars even the short time we were there…

A woman from my gym told me about a warehouse in Antigua that had Huipils (tops) and Cortes (shirts) all stacked up. It was called NimPot, and it did not disappoint! I mean, really stacked up. We were in a trance, seduced by all the variations of weaving the different styles of ikat, stripes, metallic threads, old, new,
you name it.

I have used Guatemalan indigo hand-woven fabric for many years; I love the weight of it for my clothing, and combine it with African and Japanese indigos.

We went to NimPot three days in a row! Each of us had brought an extra bag, which was filled almost to the brim, we felt like kids in a candy store. The beauty was overwhelming.

It was like being kids in a candy store.

Next stop was Lake Atitlan, we stayed in Panjachel, the main town. Again, we explored the local neighborhood, and it’s rustic flavor. Nan was fixated on pupusas, and we found a Salvadorian place that was a dive bar, but the pupusas and cortido were amazing! Food and fabric- what could be better!

One day we took a lancha (boat) to a neighboring village. Coming back was choppy but safe. The village we visited was set up for tourists, but it was still an adventure. On the last day of our stay, we searched out the market in front of the firehouse, called Las Bombas. There were many vendors with antique textiles. Of course we couldn’t resist. We bought one more bag to share.

Afterwards, we took a chicken bus up to Solola, the seat of the state. (The chicken buses are a marvel of chrome and color). It is not a tourist destination and therefore had many locals in full regalia and a wonderful vegetable and housewares market. I hope to go back there, as it is very auténtica.

I do want to return to Guatemala. The people are so kind, and I love the simple delicious food. Next time perhaps I will focus on the history and artifacts, and not be so fabric-centric. But being there, surrounded by volcanoes and a vibrant culture, is what the magic of travel is all about.

Excavation/ Creation/ Inspiration/ Reconstruction

Excavation/ Creation/ Inspiration/ Reconstruction

May 1, 2019 | Research, Travel

Excavation/ Creation/ Inspiration/ Reconstruction

Another show coming up next weekend, the pressure is on! Each preparation for a show is different, depending what I think is needed for that venue and my mood.

My mood right now is towards organizing and downsizing. That’s where the tubs/bins/boxes come in. The 4 bins of indigos, (Gosh, I’m almost out of Mayan cortes, or wrap skirts), oh look, let’s see what’s in the unfinished projects box! You see where I’m headed.

But somehow that works for me. I need to let the spirit drive me- especially for my studio sale. When I was prepping for the last trunk show for the Santa Fe Weaving Gallery, I knew I needed more of a collection, and what might sell- vests, and a jacket. But for this show I want to have fun and hope that the viewers will respond.

So, we have a number of new re-do vests and tops, and I took 2 kantha jackets I had taken apart eons ago and reconstructed them into one fabulous jacket, plus 2 sweater vest/overtops, 2 shawl re-do ponchos with pockets. And still to come-more indigo pieces.

And that only skims the surface of the available raw materials that are calling to me!

New Mexico and the Folk Art Festival

New Mexico and the Folk Art Festival

Feb 24, 2019 | Research, Shopping, Travel

New Mexico and the Folk Art Festival

My textilian friend, Sheri Brautigam set up a friend’s getaway for 4 old friends last July. First, we were going to the PowWow at Taos Pueblo. But that got cancelled so we stayed at Mabel Dodge Luhan’s house and tooled around Taos, visiting the Earthships site, Uncommon Threads and Steppin’ Out, buying Lior pants and other sartorial delights. We also stopped in to Millicent Rogers Museum, rich with pattern, on weavings and pottery. The patterns go back centuries and feel completely modern and current.

The women are never at a loss for self -entertainment!

Sheri had signed us up for visiting Georgia O’Keefe’s house in Abiquiu. I had been to Ghost Ranch before but never to the house of the Southwestern master painter. It was all we could hope for: spare, neutral and intimate. The light and shadows on adobe walls juxtaposed with deep blue sky was transporting. She lives on in this sheltered environment.

Sheri was part of the build-up for the Folk Art Festival and did a showcase/fashion show at the De Vargas Center, also called Travellers Market. Sheri collects Mexican and Guatemalen clothing and textiles and has written a book about textile markets in Mexico. There were enough wonderful outfits on display, colors and patterns with embroidery and weaving for anyone’s taste.

The big build-up was for the International Folk Art Festival in Santa Fe. This is a global forum for indigenous artists to come represent themselves and sell their wares. Sheri and I had both signed up to be translators, which I thought would be an interesting and fun way to be in the market. The catch was that our shifts started at 7am, thus avoiding extreme heat and getting the shift over, allowing time for shopping. True. But by the time the shift was over the market was at max capacity, making it difficult to move, and the afternoon monsoons were about to begin.

At any rate, I helped a lovely, elegant woman from Mali who was representing her indigo dye cooperative from Mali, stripe after stripe of shibori scarves, dresses and pillows. I am hoping she did well. It’s a long way to come, and there were many other people selling beautiful goods. I looked for the Guatemalen woman who weaves the practically sheer gauze huipils. I found the one for me and stood in line to pay while the rain gushed over my feet, luckily I was under a canopy.

Racing to take a friend to the airport in Albuquerque we passed through the massive storm clouds that had dumped on me in Santa Fe. We crawled to a standstill, the rain obliterating our vision of the highway. That was a serious New Mexico moment.

Japan with the Chigyo Sisters, Part 2

Japan with the Chigyo Sisters, Part 2

Feb 12, 2019 | Research, Travel

Japan with the Chigyo Sisters, Part 2

…Many trains later we returned to Kyoto, excited about the Temple Market!

The market takes place on the outskirts of an old temple once a month. Racks and racks of old cotton and silk kimonos and deconstructed kimonos were to be had; the cash stash I was saving evaporated in less than an hour. It was overwhelming! I was drawn to rolls of striped cotton. There were some lovely kasuri pieces, but I was mostly attracted to the beautifully woven indigo stripes. I had to be aware of mold and mildew. These are treasures that have lingered in basements in god knows what conditions. I passed by the racks of smelly pieces and carefully selected pieces that were fresh. The temple market was one of the reasons I wanted to come to Japan: the abundance of beautiful old textiles, some still with the patina of the bodies who wore them before.

After the thrill and satisfaction of shopping and hunting for fabrics, Marico and Toshie had arranged for lunch at the largest old Buddhist temple in Kyoto. There we ate a vegetarian meal in 8 parts. Each course came in a lacquered dish and at the end of the meal the dishes were stacked one in the other to from a beautiful nesting arrangement of cinnabar bowls, so thoughtful and pleasing. Plus, of course, the food was divine!

The next day was a free day. I was on the hunt for the perfect rain umbrella. There is a shop for everything in Japan. The large department store Takashimaya has it all of course but there are artisanal shops for everything else. To get to the area where the umbrella shop was we passed through Gion. Gion is the storied neighborhood where Geishas lived and entertained their clients. It is one of the remaining older areas where the buildings retain their luster and older style architecture. You can rent colorful kimono for the day and walk in elevated sandals with the split-toed socks. We saw quite a few younger women playing Geisha for the day.

The next day we took a train to a large Shinto temple in the hills outside of town. This was something I really wanted to see. The vermillion arches wend their way in a loop up the hills and back around, you are in an altered state of orange. I think it might be the largest shrine of its sort. 

The last shorter trip we took was to Takayama, a small town that is in pristine condition, many older Samurai houses, beautiful canals with large koi in floating residence. Marico took us to two wonderful thread stores where I bought a lifetime supply of Sashiko thread, some hand dyed.

The following day we drove to a small gathering of houses to meet Kazue, a papermaker, who is a Living National Treasure. She was having a photo shoot in her garden when we arrived. Her studio is very humble and I had no idea what to expect and surprised to meet her, she was like an apple doll, bent over but with such a life force and twinkle in her eye. She guided us in the art of paper making, stirring her brew of paste and pulp. I brought home a paper spider duster with a wooden handle. I love having a useful item that this almost centenarian has made.

The rest of the trip we stayed in a village called Furukawa at a ryokan named after radishes. There we perfected the art of managing an13 to 18 course meal, called Kaiseki, without eating absolutely everything in your dish. It’s a skill, and a necessary one if you want to survive with your stomach intact! I cannot say enough for the food in Japan; so fresh and inventive, so well seasoned.

The last day before leaving in the afternoon, I rambled around Kyoto with Marico. We ate one last meal at an artisanal Soba restaurant, a walk through the food/shoe market, and a slip into a secret corridor to find the needle shop, the charming traditional garden on the way to a jewel box store selling: sashiko needles and snips. There are surprises and beauty wherever you go in Japan, and I had the best hosts!

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